Photo taken on February 1, 2026 shows Ma Xuecai serves the "nine bowls in three rows" to the customers.

Shiliuyun-Xinjiang Daily (Reporter Han Liang) news: At noon on February 1, 2026, the Changji Snack Street buzzed with activities. Ma Xuecai's restaurant was packed. A server carried a wooden tray neatly arranged with nine steaming bowls of food; as soon as the dishes hit the table, diners eagerly raised their chopsticks.

The "nine bowls in three rows" is a traditional feast passed down through generations in multi-ethnic communities, including Hui and Han people in Xinjiang. Its name comes from the nine dishes arranged in three rows. In 2012, this culinary tradition was inscribed in the autonomous region-level intangible cultural heritage list. "I learned this craft from my father when I was young. Every step, every proportion, is etched in my memory," said Ma Xuecai, an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage. In the early days, this labor-intensive feast was reserved only for major occasions like weddings and funerals.

Photo taken on February 1, 2026 shows Ma Xuecai wipes the plaque honoring him as a representative inheritor of the "nine bowls in three rows."

When the Changji Snack Street was established in 2008, Ma was among the first merchants to set up shop. Starting from a small, dozens-of-square-meter eatery, he brought the dishes to the wider public. As times changed, he realized that preserving the soul of traditional cuisine meant keeping pace with the times.

With this philosophy in mind, Ma began to innovate boldly. He retained the classic three-row arrangement of nine dishes and the core techniques of steaming, boiling, and mixing. However, he eliminated repetitive dishes and filler ingredients, introducing a wider range of flavored courses, each with its own distinctive sauce and taste. He also adjusted the recipes to suit modern dietary preferences, making the traditionally rich flavors lighter and fresher. Upgrades in tableware and plating brought a contemporary aesthetic, making the traditional banquet more visually appealing.

Photo taken on February 1, 2026 shows the "nine bowls in three rows" feast.

Photo taken on February 1, 2026 shows Ma Xuecai makes dishes. of the "nine bowls in three rows."

Photo taken on February 1, 2026 shows Ma Xuecai makes one of the dishes of the "nine bowls in three rows."

Today, Ma's restaurant has become a must-visit spot on the snack street. Wang Min, a tourist from east China's Shandong Province, couldn't hide her admiration after tasting the food: "It's not just delicious; the arrangement is meaningful too. What you're eating isn't only food, it's culture." Ma Yue, a local resident and frequent guest, said, "Their dishes offer varieties, and all of them are authentic and loved by both young and old."

Behind this thriving business is Ma Xuecai's unwavering commitment to passing down the tradition. His daughter, Ma Fan, has already taken up the baton, promoting the cuisine through modern methods like short videos and live-streamed food tours. "The government has given us policy support and this honor, we must carry it forward," Ma Xuecai said. He hopes the fragrance of the "nine bowls in three rows" will linger through the ages, handed down from generation to generation.

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