Shiliuyun-Xinjiang Daily (Reporter Yin Lu) news: "I’m from China’s Xinjiang, and the elements of these clothes come from our traditional ethnic costumes." Maouya Jesbek, a costume designer from Xinjiang, confidently introduced her works at the MAD MOOD FASHION WEEK MILANO individual exhibition at the Milan Fashion Week in Italy at the end of February this year. On April 25, 2024, she will go to Kazakhstan to participate in ASPARA Fashion Week.

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

Milan Fashion Week is one of the “Big Four Fashion Weeks” in the world, which take place in four major cities around the world, New York, Paris, Milan, and London. Founded in 1967, Milan Fashion Week, has always been regarded as a barometer of global fashion and trends.

For the first time participating in Milan Fashion Week and holding an individual exhibition, Maouya was full of enthusiasm and pressure. "Taking my own designed clothing to Milan Fashion Week was the goal I set for myself when I graduated from college. It took me ten years to achieve it," she said.

This year, the official of Milan Fashion Week has posed many requirements for designers holding individual exhibitions, among which the core requirement is that the works should have elements of designer's own national and ethnic clothing characteristics, and be able to fully show the combination of "traditional craftsmanship and modern innovation" in the works. In order to prepare for this exhibition, Maouya has taken out the design drafts, various traditional embroidery patterns, accessories, and fabric materials she had accumulated over the past years as inspiration for her creation.

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

Due to the lack of experience in participating in international first-class fashion week individual exhibitions, Maouya's company facilitated guidance from several foreign designers. "Starting from the initial design draft, every step has to be completed according to the standards of the international exhibitions. This is a brand new experience for me. And I also understand how strict the exhibition is for designers and how it can improve designers’ ability," Maouya said that she had to revise a draft for the ninth time before passing it, which greatly touched her.

The theme of Maouya's works is to show the Kazak embroidery on felt and cloth in China’s Xinjiang, as well as the application of handmade string of beads in modern fashion.

Kazak embroidery on felt and cloth is a traditional embroidery method that has been widely used in clothing, shoes and hats, accessories, and household items, combining practicality and artistry. The technique of Kazak embroidery on felt and cloth was listed as representative projects of China's national intangible cultural heritage.

"Patterns are the very important part of Kazak clothing, which encompasses people's thinking, aesthetics and the understanding and innovation ability of nature." Maouya thinks that traditional embroidery patterns have inspired her a lot. The patterns embroidered by her mother in her childhood have given her a good enlightenment. The sun, the moon, the stars, flowers, birds, plants and animals have become exquisite patterns in her hands.

In order to design more realistic and vivid elements, Maouya spends over a month to find "treasures" in places with traditional embroidery inheritors every year. She collected many patterns on the pillowcase embroidered by her grandmother when she got married, on the handkerchiefs embroidered by women for their daughters, and on the felt blankets, felt caps, cloth-embroidered tablecloths and sofa covers made by the embroiderers in the embroidery cooperatives, which evolved from leaves, flowers, feathers, sheep horns, deer antlers, and other changes. The warm meanings contained in these patterns made her even more enchanting.

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

In recent years, Maouya's works have showcased in many domestic exhibitions. In 2023, she participated in the fashion show of the 6th China Xinjiang International Ethnic Dance Festival.

Even though she has designed and produced many works with ethnic costume elements, Maouya still faced many difficulties at this time.

"I combined embroidery with beading. I first embroidered on the clothing, and then added small beads to emphasize the pattern." Maouya said, "I was very satisfied with the pattern, but when it was paired with the clothes, I found it was not what I wanted." For example, there are more than ten types of materials for bead, with different brightness, hardness and color. Without sewing it onto clothing, it is difficult to see if it is a match or not. So she kept trying until she got the best match.

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

There are a total of 10 sets of clothing in this series, each of which has undergone many revisions. Maouya's professional ability has also been greatly improved. "Sometime I think it's all right, but foreign advisers still give suggestions for revision. Sometimes when I'm too tired, l may have the idea of giving up, but it is quickly suppressed, I must keep doing."

Maryvina Duratova, the head of a modeling agency in Kazakhstan, was impressed by Maouya’s works at the exhibition. "Her works highlight traditional Chinese craftsmanship without overuse, maintaining a fresh and outgoing temperament. The details of cutting and sewing show the designer's dedication and breakthrough. We look forward to seeing more works of young Chinese designers at the International Fashion Week in the future."

Photo shows Maouya Jesbek’s work in the Milan Fashion Week in Italy. (Photo provided by Maouya Jesbek)

This experience made Maouya feel the diversity of fashion art in different cultural backgrounds. "Whether it's the dazzling designs on the runway or the people’s daily dressing, I feel the freshness and diversity. I hope to showcase traditional Chinese culture on a broader stage, inherit Chinese culture through integration and innovation.”

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